Insider Out with Ashley Pahler
by Juliet DeRoseWhen the Antoinette Westphal College of Media Arts & Design at Drexel University needed to choose a recipient of its first-ever Charles Evans Fashion Design Scholarship in July 2009, then senior Ashley Pahler was an obvious choice. This June, the Rumson, NJ native revealed her spring collection, the product of a year-long labor of love, at Drexel’s annual fashion show and received praise for her luxe, carnival-inspired pieces. Now, a college graduate, Pahler, 22, aims to launch into the arduous fashion industry.
Describe your collection and who or what influenced it.
I designed my collection around a theme I like to call “vintage carnival”. I was influenced by an old photograph I found of a carousel. From the photo I found so many ideas for clothing, color palette, texture, trims and beading. From there, I picked out some swatches and began sketching.
Whom does your collection appeal to?
My collection appeals to a very feminine and stylish young woman who isn’t afraid to dress up in public. I would say my designs would fall in between the categories of “Young Designer” and “Designer."
Why womenswear?
I feel that women’s bodies are so completely different from one another. I enjoy exploring different design options when considering the shape of a woman. After all, women should celebrate their bodies and dress for themselves. I really like feminine clothing and intricate accessories that can dress up any outfit. Also, I am a huge fan of embellishments; it was an easy choice for me when deciding between womenswear and menswear. A beaded chiffon blouse would look a bit ridiculous on a man, don’t you think?
How does your personal style and aesthetics influence and inspire your designs?
Most of the things I make, I wish I had in my closet. After I am done making a garment or sketching a design, you can tell it is mine. I think it is a really great thing when people can recognize that you made something without asking. I have a large jewelry collection and a bunch of embroidered clothing that I go back to and look at for inspiration. I have a few vintage pieces that were either given to me or bought; I love to dissect them and see how they were made (the majority of them are beaded so I refer to those pieces for inspiration as well).
Who are some of your favorite designers and why?
I love Christian Lacroix, John Galliano, Matthew Williamson, Christian Dior, Chanel, Nanette Lepore, Miu Miu, Luella, Valentino, Milly, Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen and 3.1 Phillip Lim. But, my favorite is most certainly Christian Lacroix. This group of designers is my favorite because each one pays close attention to detail in their clothing and they put much care and effort into the finished product. I also love couture and most of these designers show in Paris for the Haute Couture shows.
When did you know you wanted to get into the fashion industry?
I knew I wanted to get into the fashion industry when I was in high school. As a kid, I was always very crafty and creative so I knew I wanted to do something artistic. I always had a love for beads and jewelry, but it wasn’t until later on when I gained a great appreciation for clothing.

How has studying in Philadelphia contributed to your growth as a designer?
I am from a small beach town in New Jersey, so studying in Philadelphia contributed in a way that helped me become more independent. Living in a city, I was able to see what different kinds of people were wearing and I was able to see so many influences around me, influences I could only see in an urban setting.
Your collection is ultra feminine and very pretty but the variety of textures and patterns give it substance. How important was it to you that your garments maintained a mix of femininity and structure?
I think it is very important, when designing for women, to make sure that femininity is not lost. I wanted to bring forth the idea of fantasy in a very feminine sportswear group. Each look had an embellished piece making it very special and unforgettable. I also introduced playful concepts such as hand beading, embroidery and hand sewing to pick up on couture techniques in my creations. My collection has a mixture of structure and soft drapery. The softness will reflect the femininity and whimsy while the structure will exemplify the quirky shapes of Ferris wheels and carousels. The color palette I chose is soft and delicate with a pop of “aged” primary colors. The brilliance of ochre and burnt red allows an added quirkiness to the feminine colors of blush, cream, and sea foam green.
What are your plans post-graduation?
After graduation, I plan on scheduling as many interviews as I can get and hopefully landing a job for the fall. On my free time I am going to relax, but I will be sure to continue sketching and sewing.